My TX2000z succumbed to the ever popular overheating issue a few weeks ago. The intention, with this post, is to provide a step by step guide to pulling out your motherboard. I have seen site after site, video after video talking about how to fix the motherboard, but little on pulling it out. Also, it seems everyone is bitching and moaning about the issue appearing just after their warranty was up as if HP devised some internal bomb to go off. I had all the options, just like everyone else, to extend that warrantyùI should have. I am not saying I deserve to have purchased a piece of shit, but let’s face it, it’s an HP. I’m not pretending I haven’t been warned.

Speaking of…


In the process of dismantling your tx2000z, I take no responsibilities for any harm that may befall you, your laptop, your clothes, your home, your girlfriend/wife/toy, your first born, your pet or anything I can think of for using the information found on this post.

You’ve Been Warned!

So let’s get to it, shall we?
In a nutshell, I needed to re-seat the Nvidia chip, clean and re-thermal the CPU, and add the ‘copper penny’ shim to the heatsink; so, obviously, I needed access to the MB.

Advice: Label everything.


I circled the screws and locking mechanisms in order to pull the battery, dvd drive and ultimately the case top. The locking mechanisms, circled blue, will allow you the ability to remove the battery and the dvd drive. Do that now. The yellow circled screws will remove the cover plates to the hard drive, memory modules and wifi board. The green and red circled screws we’ll get to in a bit.

Once you get the wifi cover plate removed, disconnect the wifi wires (red circles) and then unscrew (yellow circles) the wifi board. The board is somewhat spring loaded and if you are not careful, the screws may catapult.



After you remove their cover plate, the memory modules pop right out when you displace the clips at either side.

After you uncover the hard drive, lift up on the plastic tab and pull. There can be a little stickiness to the padding (yellow circle) which may require a little effort to remove the drive. There is a small black screw hidden under the hard drive. That needs to be removed also.



You need to remove the red and green circled screws from the bottom (see first picture at top) in order to release the keyboard. Once the screws are removed, flip the laptop right side up, lift the right edge of the case top and pull the keyboard up and out.

Once you have pulled the keyboard up, you need to disconnect the keyboard from the motherboard.


After the keyboard is removed, you can get to the last two screws holding the case top down. Disconnect the mouse pad (don’t forget to remove the remote control unit) and now the top can lift off. There are a few friction points that hold the top in place, but it should come up pretty easily. Don’t forget the screw which was hidden by the hard drive.





After you have pulled the case top off, turn the screen ninety degrees and remove the audio strip. The audio strip has a few clips at the sides and the rear of the laptop. Gently pry them loose and lift away the strip. There are no wires connecting this strip.





Now that the top has been removed, carefully flip the laptop over and remove the cover protecting the screen wires via the single screw circled in yellow. Then gently pull the wires and remove the two screws, again circled in yellow. Flip the unit over and locate the connector at the front. Carefully pull the connection and then remove the last two screws holding the screen in place. Be ready to catch the screen as it may fall. Pull the screen away from the laptop carefully making sure to feed the wires from below out the hole.





Once the screen is removed, disconnect the two wires left holding the MB in. Now, the motherboard can be lifted out from the left side hinging at the right side where the inputs are located. It should pull out easily, but take care at the inputs.




All that’s left is removing the heat sink. Remove the screws (yellow circles) and the fan plug.



The rest is upto you, but if you have the overheating issue, you can follow the myriad of videos on setting the Nvidia chipset and adding the penny (c.1982 or earlier) or a copper shim. I used the Micro-Therm flame-less heat gun to do the trick. When putting it all back together, do not skimp on quality with regard to the thermal compound. I used Arctic Silver. Be sure to use only what’s necessary, a paper thin layer to fill in any defects on the surfaces.

Good Luck!